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Has the Wayne-Dalton i-drive opener been discontinued?

TWX

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I went to Wayne-Dalton's website a couple of days ago and they now list Genie openers rather than their own brand! I was looking forward to buying one of these openers, but only when I actually needed to replace an existing one, as at about $300 it's hard to justify the money on something that isn't broken yet.

If they've been discontinued, I might have to get one early while there are still some in the distribution chain...
 
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bradweingartner

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I haven't heard a lot of good about the i-drive, mostly problems. But I've heard a lot of good about the Liftmaster 3800. It's the direction I'm going to keep the opener off the ceiling.
 

Matt M PA

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While I have no first-hand knowledge...when I was researching my opener purchase a couple month's ago..I did read on-line in more than one place that the i-drive was cancelled. I remembered it as a friend of mine had one installed and it was trouble.
 

koditten

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I got rid of mine 5 years ago. Myself and a few people in the area found these openers to be extreamly problematic. These were proffessionally installed and replaced with genie units at no cost to us. These things had a really good idea, but just could not get away from programming issues. I think they may have worked well if they could have been hard wired instead of using remotes. I know mine had a bad circuit board right out of the box.

I have had many Genie units over the years and will continue to use them. I don't need a jack shaft opener, so I will remain conventional. I understand limit switches and they work just fine.
 

rwhite692

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If they've been discontinued, I might have to get one early while there are still some in the distribution chain...

You must really be a masochist, or, you really enjoy installing garage door openers, LOL....

You can expect that your existing WD opener will most likely fail prematurely, then, you can "save money" by buying and installing another one of the same discontinued pieces of crap, which will most likely fail prematurely as well, THEN, you can go but a liftmaster and install that.

Then, you will need to find a new hobby.
 

Kirk

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I bought an I Drive several years ago. The motor failed fairly soon. They sent a new "improved" motor that worked fine untill recently. I called and they told me the motor had been updated again and it would not fit the older openers. Wayne Dalton sent me a complete new power head for free. This was about 60 days ago.
 

NUTTSGT

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We have two of them, the wifes wall mount remote eats a battery every three weeks and mine, the overhead light doesn't work. I love the idea behind the design but I have heard they have problems. I honestly, wouldn't recommend them either.

I wouldn't be surprised if they were discontinued.
 

mrobins297aaa

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Consider yourself lucky that they cancelled them before you got a chance to becomes a victim.
I had two of them at my last house and they both were a pos, so much so that I don't think I'll ever be able to buy anything again with the wayne-dalton label on it.

this house I have a liftmaster 3800 in the barn and it has worked perfect.
 
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TWX

TWX

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Ah. I wasn't aware of the problems. I guess putting it in-line didn't help it much.

I still think that the idea is brilliant- hopefully someone will introduce another center, above-the-door unit that works. It's useless space, even moreso than where the Liftmaster 3800 goes.

What I'd really like to do is to raise the tracks up closer to the ceiling, extend the vertical tracks to reach the ground, and be able to get the door up higher too. Maybe even high enough to suspend the lights below the doors. With a 9.5' ceiling that's currently impractical with the low height of the door.
 

nova65ss

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Wayne Dalton was bought out by Overhead Door last year but only on the door side. The electronic division is still somewhat in limbo and pretty sure they did discontinue the I drive.
 

NUTTSGT

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Wayne Dalton was bought out by Overhead Door last year but only on the door side. The electronic division is still somewhat in limbo and pretty sure they did discontinue the I drive.

I guess if they discontinue it, my lifetime warranty doesn't mean crap.
 
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TWX

TWX

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I guess if they discontinue it, my lifetime warranty doesn't mean crap.

Not necessarily, but certainly likely. If they've been bought out, it depends on if the "electronics" part of the company was bought, or if it's just left to whither and die. The only problem could be if there aren't any parts made anymore, but it sounds like when others had that problem, they got a whole new unit. If the warranty is REALLY good, they might send you one from another brand, and hopefully even a torsion-drive unit like a Liftmaster 3800 or 3900...

I've never really been impressed with lifetime warranties when companies often don't stick around long enough to honor them, or when mergers and acquisitions cause new owners to attempt to not make good on the obligations they bought.
 

NUTTSGT

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Not necessarily, but certainly likely. If they've been bought out, it depends on if the "electronics" part of the company was bought, or if it's just left to whither and die. The only problem could be if there aren't any parts made anymore, but it sounds like when others had that problem, they got a whole new unit. If the warranty is REALLY good, they might send you one from another brand, and hopefully even a torsion-drive unit like a Liftmaster 3800 or 3900...
I've never really been impressed with lifetime warranties when companies often don't stick around long enough to honor them, or when mergers and acquisitions cause new owners to attempt to not make good on the obligations they bought.

Oh man wouoldn't that be nice ? Maybe I should call tomorrow and inquire about the problems we have with ours. :headscrat
 
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TWX

TWX

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It appears that there are still units in the distribution chain, so my guess is that you'd get either parts or else another i-drive. You'd probably have to wait a year or more to get otherwise.
 

wintermute

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I have one and it's decent…remote light works, batteries last (only replaced the wall unit batteries once in ~2 years at this point) I also have the "pinch resistant" door that's supposed to eliminate the need for the eyes, but it was all installed anyway…

the security lock (pivoting motor) has never worked either, but I don't really consider that too much of a deal breaker as I just don't have the space for a standard chain/belt/screw-type opener; I'll accept the trade-off.

It is picky sometimes and will just refuse to close, so I pop the manual release, close it, re-enable auto and go on my way
 

Uncle Bill

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Is my Wayne-Dalton i-drive opener about to die?

I have had my I-drive garage door opener for over eight years with never a problem. Last week all of my remotes, I have four plus the wall station, started acting up. The first was the wall station, so I took the one from my motor home for use in the garage. Now they all work but you have to be within 15 feet of the opener, including the wall station. Yes, I have replaced ALL with fresh batteries. Any ideas other than installing a Genie or Liftmaster. I have a pull down access ladder in the center of my garage that would interfere with a belt or worm drive type opener, so changing out the opener is my last option.
 

911mike

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If you guys think the I-Drive was a POS you should own 2 of the DoorMaster's. These were the model before the I-Drive. I have 2 and one has a mind of it's own and the other is pretty good. They do drop codes about once a year so you have to reprogram ALL of the remotes.

My problem is they were made to work with the WD torque tube springs which have a drive cog in the center of the 16ft shaft that the DoorMaster drives too. I'm stuck with a old style overhead track opener if and when I replace them. I have two Liftmaster 3800's in my barn and so far they have been pretty good.
 

rebwork

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Greenville, SC
I have an i-Drive, was in the house when we purchased it. Contrary to all I have read it had been pretty reliable for the last 8+ years. It does appear to be loosing power, and I suspect it may die before long.

If I replace the i-drive with a more conventional opener, will I need to replace the tube springs with a different type of torsion bar or can I leave it in place and just install a new opener?

Thanks!
 

pattenp

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I have an i-Drive, was in the house when we purchased it. Contrary to all I have read it had been pretty reliable for the last 8+ years. It does appear to be loosing power, and I suspect it may die before long.

If I replace the i-drive with a more conventional opener, will I need to replace the tube springs with a different type of torsion bar or can I leave it in place and just install a new opener?

Thanks!

You'll have to remove the idrive motor from the torsion tube and use a trolley style opener. A jackshaft opener will not work on the wayne dalton TorqueMaster idrive torsion tube type bar.

Use this center brace in place of the motor........
http://www.waynedaltonparts.com/Wayne-Dalton-Torquemaster-Center-Wall-Bracket.html

*
 
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3PedalMINI

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god i was hoping i would never have to think about or see the I-Drive name again. Biggest POS after my 2010 GMC sierra i have ever owned. It sucked as a paperweight too because it was kind of round. Lasted all of 6 months and nearly burnt my garage down. Thank god I had a fire extinguisher handy and i was home when the I-Drive started to melt down (literally) Wayne Dalton shrugged it off and didnt even replace it with another or even a standard one.
 

ovilla

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I have installed at least 20+ openers over the years for friends and ended up buying an i-drive when they first came out. I had the thing installed in about 30 min and then spent about 3 hours with customer support that first day. The following week the opener started acting up again, and this was with brand new doors and all new hardware. I got so frustrated with this POS unit that I yanked it down and simply threw it in a box. Afterwards I bought one (and then two) Liftmaster 3800 units and I must say that these are definitely the very best openers for the money. They are very easy to install and they work flawlessly too.

If you want to buy my old I-drive just let me know. I'll sell it cheap too.
 

Farmboy2013

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Ovilla - how much trouble was it to replace the idrive setup with the Liftmaster 3800? I have 3 idrive units...two have crapped out. Does the 3800 come with the bar or does it have to be purchased separately? Will it work with the Wayne Dalton door hardware? I am trying to figure out how much I am going to have to tear down and replace. Thanks!
 

pattenp

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Ovilla - how much trouble was it to replace the idrive setup with the Liftmaster 3800? I have 3 idrive units...two have crapped out. Does the 3800 come with the bar or does it have to be purchased separately? Will it work with the Wayne Dalton door hardware? I am trying to figure out how much I am going to have to tear down and replace. Thanks!

Which idrive and bar do you have? Do you have the regular Wayne Dalton torsion bar or do you have the TorqueMaster bar? The LM3800 will work on the regular torsion bar, but the TorqueMaster bar will not work with the LM3800 and will need to be replaced. Which means new bar, springs, brackets, drums and cables.
 

Trey T

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I changed my garage door and added the torquemaster torsion bar. I looked into the i-drive but it was not popular.

If LM3800 is as good as it sound, I may switch back to regular torsion bar and get it.
 

ovilla

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Ovilla - how much trouble was it to replace the idrive setup with the Liftmaster 3800? I have 3 idrive units...two have crapped out. Does the 3800 come with the bar or does it have to be purchased separately? Will it work with the Wayne Dalton door hardware? I am trying to figure out how much I am going to have to tear down and replace. Thanks!

I had a regular (non WD door in place). My I-Drive is the one made to work with regular garage doors. Installing the LM3800 requires that your door have a real bar (not the WD torquemaster thing) with springs in place. Change to the LM3800. It is whisper quite and will be no louder.than you manually opening your door. Plus, the LM3800 comes with an integrated deadbolt that activates when you close your door and keeps it from opening, even if you pull on the emergency release cord.
 

Farmboy2013

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Ahhhh...I see. I have a WD door and the torquemaster bar so it looks like i'm going to have to replace the entire setup. Can I purchase a torsion bar and spring setup to retrofit or will I have to replace the rails and all? Can you recommend an online dealer where I can purchase the parts?
 

pattenp

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Ahhhh...I see. I have a WD door and the torquemaster bar so it looks like i'm going to have to replace the entire setup. Can I purchase a torsion bar and spring setup to retrofit or will I have to replace the rails and all? Can you recommend an online dealer where I can purchase the parts?

I converted my Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster to a standard torsion bar set up. Had to replace the drums, springs, cables, and brackets. All the original track can be used. I have purchased parts from http://ddmgaragedoors.com/ and the people who run it are very helpful. The torsion bar I purchased from a local garage door company simply because of shipping issues.
 

Nox

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You'll have to remove the idrive motor from the torsion tube and use a trolley style opener. A jackshaft opener will not work on the wayne dalton TorqueMaster idrive torsion tube type bar.

Use this center brace in place of the motor........
http://www.waynedaltonparts.com/Wayne-Dalton-Torquemaster-Center-Wall-Bracket.html

*

I'm on my second iDrive with the TorqueMaster set-up. The first drive was replaced about 3-4 years ago, and the replacement unit is now giving me trouble. It came with the new house. The iDrives really don't seem to like the cold. I never had problems with trolley style openers in frigid MN, but this iDrive is junk, even in CO where it really isn't that cold.

I'm having trouble picturing how the bracket/brace referenced above will work. The iDrive unit is about a foot wide. Does one of the the torsion tubes run all the way through the drive? Do both the left and right torsion tubes meet at the bracket? I guess it must be, but as I said I'm having trouble picturing it.

I have plenty of room to install an overhead opener and I'm not aware of anything wrong with the door, springs, cables etc. It is only 7 years old, so I hope the fix is as easy as just this bracket and a new trolley style opener.

Great thread and great answers so far.
 

pattenp

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I'm on my second iDrive with the TorqueMaster set-up. The first drive was replaced about 3-4 years ago, and the replacement unit is now giving me trouble. It came with the new house. The iDrives really don't seem to like the cold. I never had problems with trolley style openers in frigid MN, but this iDrive is junk, even in CO where it really isn't that cold.

I'm having trouble picturing how the bracket/brace referenced above will work. The iDrive unit is about a foot wide. Does one of the the torsion tubes run all the way through the drive? Do both the left and right torsion tubes meet at the bracket? I guess it must be, but as I said I'm having trouble picturing it.

I have plenty of room to install an overhead opener and I'm not aware of anything wrong with the door, springs, cables etc. It is only 7 years old, so I hope the fix is as easy as just this bracket and a new trolley style opener.

Great thread and great answers so far.

The TorqueMaster bar that I'm familiar with is one solid bar that passes through the idrive. The idrive is mounted to the header plate giving support to the center of the bar. If the bar is short such as 9' then the center support may not be needed with the idrive removed. On long bars such as 16' - 18' a center support bracket is needed.
 
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Nox

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I guess it would make sense that the tube is a solid piece. I'll be interested to see what the set-up looks like when I take the iDrive off.

The bracket is on order.

Thanks for the help.
 

upndown

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That center bracket is strictly for support, keeps the torque tube from flopping around. No tension to worry about!!

When you go to unwind the spring..there is a lock nut on the opposite side, using a 7/16 wrench just loosen that a bit then take the counter down to 0. using a drill motor.

Be warned..0 doesn't always mean the spring is unwound!! Carefully tap off the die cast housing. Not trying to scare you..Just hate to see a guy ruin a good pair of shorts..:beer:
 

AndyL

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You're assuming it's old style torquemaster, the new style don't have winding hubs... They're a whole different ball game :)

But unwind until the drum rolls back - bit hard on the springs, but its safer.
 

pattenp

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You're assuming it's old style torquemaster, the new style don't have winding hubs... They're a whole different ball game :)

But unwind until the drum rolls back - bit hard on the springs, but its safer.

What is the old style Torquemaster? This is the only Torquemaster spring system I know of.

Edit: Oh you're talking about the Torquemaster Plus.

This is the original Torquemaster.....
wayne-dalton-torquemaster-spring-systems.jpg
 
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AndyL

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Sorta kinda :) old and really old are backward compatible, new isn't.

Dunno our wayne dalton rep didn't call them regular and plus, just new and old... In the warehouse they're steel vs plastic ends... Who needs company terms when we can make ones that work :)

PattenP - New style, no longer encorporates winding mechanism, (techs now carry that as a tool) - so outside the drum you just have a little clip with a pair of knobs. Pretty sure someone decided to play with tension, just about killed themselves, and sued... And thus, it's not as user serviceble...
 
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